Tamales Oaxaqueños: A Step-by-Step Guide to Authentic Oaxacan Tamales

Tamales Oaxaqueños, a cornerstone of Oaxacan cuisine, are unlike any other tamale you might have tried. Wrapped in fragrant banana leaves instead of corn husks, these masa parcels are incredibly moist, flavorful, and imbued with a subtle sweetness. The filling, typically a rich mole negro or a simpler salsa roja with shredded meat, adds another layer of complexity. Making them at home can seem daunting, but with patience and a detailed guide, you can recreate this Oaxacan delicacy in your own kitchen. This comprehensive guide will take you through each step, ensuring success and a delicious reward.

What Makes Oaxacan Tamales Special?

Before diving into the recipe, it’s important to understand what distinguishes Tamales Oaxaqueños from other regional variations. The key differences lie in:

* **Banana Leaves:** The use of banana leaves imparts a unique flavor and aroma to the tamales, keeping them incredibly moist during steaming. Corn husks, commonly used in other tamale recipes, provide a different, slightly drier texture.
* **Masa Preparation:** The masa for Oaxacan tamales often incorporates lard or shortening for richness and a tender crumb. Some recipes also include a touch of sugar or anise seed for subtle sweetness.
* **Mole or Salsa Filling:** While fillings can vary, traditional Tamales Oaxaqueños often feature mole negro, a complex and deeply flavorful sauce made with chilies, chocolate, spices, and nuts. Simpler versions may use salsa roja with shredded chicken or pork.
* **Texture:** The texture is incredibly soft and almost pudding-like, a direct result of the banana leaf wrapping and the high moisture content.

## Ingredients You’ll Need

Here’s a breakdown of the ingredients you’ll need to make authentic Tamales Oaxaqueños. It might seem like a long list, especially if you’re making mole negro, but each ingredient plays a vital role in the final flavor.

**For the Masa:**

* 5 cups masa harina (instant corn masa mix for tamales, Maseca brand recommended)
* 4 cups warm chicken broth (or vegetable broth for vegetarian option)
* 1 cup lard or vegetable shortening (at room temperature)
* 1 teaspoon baking powder
* 1 teaspoon salt
* ½ teaspoon anise seeds (optional, for added flavor)
* ½ cup reserved cooking liquid from the filling (optional, adds flavor and moisture)

**For the Banana Leaves:**

* 12-16 large banana leaves (fresh or frozen, thawed if frozen)

**For the Filling (Mole Negro Variation):**

* *Note: Making mole negro from scratch is a multi-day process. You can use a store-bought mole negro paste or powder to shorten the preparation time. However, homemade is always best.*
* **If making mole negro from scratch:**
* Assorted dried chilies (ancho, pasilla, mulato, guajillo – approximately 8-10 total, seeded and deveined)
* 1 large onion, roughly chopped
* 4 cloves garlic, roughly chopped
* ½ cup blanched almonds
* ½ cup raisins
* ¼ cup sesame seeds
* ¼ cup peanuts
* 2 ounces Mexican chocolate (preferably Oaxacan chocolate)
* 1 tablespoon lard or vegetable oil
* 1 teaspoon dried oregano
* ½ teaspoon ground cumin
* ½ teaspoon ground cloves
* ½ teaspoon ground cinnamon
* 1/4 teaspoon ground anise seed
* 2 cups chicken broth
* Salt and sugar to taste
* **If using mole negro paste or powder:**
* 1 cup mole negro paste or powder
* 2 cups chicken broth
* 1 tablespoon lard or vegetable oil
* Salt and sugar to taste
* 2-3 pounds boneless pork shoulder or chicken thighs
* 1 onion, quartered
* 2 cloves garlic, smashed
* Salt to taste

**For the Filling (Salsa Roja Variation):**

* 2 pounds boneless pork shoulder or chicken thighs
* 1 onion, quartered
* 2 cloves garlic, smashed
* Salt to taste
* **For the Salsa Roja:**
* 8-10 dried guajillo chilies, seeded and deveined
* 2-3 dried ancho chilies, seeded and deveined
* 1 large onion, roughly chopped
* 4 cloves garlic, roughly chopped
* 2 cups chicken broth
* 1 teaspoon dried oregano
* ½ teaspoon ground cumin
* Salt to taste

## Step-by-Step Instructions

Here’s a detailed guide on how to make Tamales Oaxaqueños, covering both the mole negro and salsa roja filling options. Remember to read through the entire recipe before you start.

**Part 1: Preparing the Filling**

* **Mole Negro Filling (From Scratch):**
1. **Rehydrate the Chilies:** Toast the dried chilies lightly in a dry skillet over medium heat for a few seconds per side, until fragrant. Be careful not to burn them. Place the toasted chilies in a bowl and cover with hot water. Let them soak for about 30 minutes, until softened.
2. **Prepare the Pork or Chicken:** Place the pork shoulder or chicken thighs in a large pot and cover with water. Add the quartered onion, smashed garlic, and salt. Bring to a boil, then reduce heat and simmer for about 1.5-2 hours, or until the meat is tender and easily shredded. Reserve about ½ cup of the cooking liquid for the masa.
3. **Make the Mole:** Drain the soaked chilies, reserving about 1 cup of the soaking liquid. In a blender, combine the rehydrated chilies, onion, garlic, almonds, raisins, sesame seeds, peanuts, Mexican chocolate, oregano, cumin, cloves, anise seed, and enough of the reserved chili soaking liquid to form a smooth paste. You may need to do this in batches.
4. **Cook the Mole:** Heat the lard or vegetable oil in a large pot over medium heat. Pour in the blended mole paste and cook, stirring constantly, for about 10-15 minutes, until the mole darkens and thickens. Be careful not to let it burn. Gradually add the chicken broth, stirring until smooth. Season with salt and sugar to taste. The mole should be thick enough to coat the back of a spoon.
5. **Shred the Meat:** Once the pork or chicken is cool enough to handle, shred it with two forks.
6. **Combine Meat and Mole:** Add the shredded meat to the pot with the mole negro and stir to coat. Simmer for another 15-20 minutes, allowing the flavors to meld. Taste and adjust seasoning as needed. Let the filling cool completely before assembling the tamales.
* **Mole Negro Filling (Using Paste or Powder):**
1. **Prepare the Pork or Chicken:** Place the pork shoulder or chicken thighs in a large pot and cover with water. Add the quartered onion, smashed garlic, and salt. Bring to a boil, then reduce heat and simmer for about 1.5-2 hours, or until the meat is tender and easily shredded. Reserve about ½ cup of the cooking liquid for the masa.
2. **Cook the Mole:** Heat the lard or vegetable oil in a large pot over medium heat. Add the mole negro paste or powder and cook, stirring constantly, for about 2-3 minutes until fragrant. Gradually add the chicken broth, stirring until smooth. Season with salt and sugar to taste. The mole should be thick enough to coat the back of a spoon.
3. **Shred the Meat:** Once the pork or chicken is cool enough to handle, shred it with two forks.
4. **Combine Meat and Mole:** Add the shredded meat to the pot with the mole negro and stir to coat. Simmer for another 15-20 minutes, allowing the flavors to meld. Taste and adjust seasoning as needed. Let the filling cool completely before assembling the tamales.
* **Salsa Roja Filling:**
1. **Prepare the Pork or Chicken:** Place the pork shoulder or chicken thighs in a large pot and cover with water. Add the quartered onion, smashed garlic, and salt. Bring to a boil, then reduce heat and simmer for about 1.5-2 hours, or until the meat is tender and easily shredded. Reserve about ½ cup of the cooking liquid for the masa.
2. **Rehydrate the Chilies:** Toast the dried guajillo and ancho chilies lightly in a dry skillet over medium heat for a few seconds per side, until fragrant. Be careful not to burn them. Place the toasted chilies in a bowl and cover with hot water. Let them soak for about 30 minutes, until softened.
3. **Make the Salsa:** Drain the soaked chilies, reserving about ½ cup of the soaking liquid. In a blender, combine the rehydrated chilies, onion, garlic, oregano, cumin, and enough of the reserved chili soaking liquid to form a smooth paste. You may need to do this in batches.
4. **Cook the Salsa:** Heat a tablespoon of oil in a large pot over medium heat. Pour in the blended salsa paste and cook, stirring constantly, for about 5-7 minutes, until the salsa darkens and thickens. Gradually add the chicken broth, stirring until smooth. Season with salt to taste. The salsa should be thick enough to coat the back of a spoon.
5. **Shred the Meat:** Once the pork or chicken is cool enough to handle, shred it with two forks.
6. **Combine Meat and Salsa:** Add the shredded meat to the pot with the salsa roja and stir to coat. Simmer for another 15-20 minutes, allowing the flavors to meld. Taste and adjust seasoning as needed. Let the filling cool completely before assembling the tamales.

**Part 2: Preparing the Masa**

1. **Combine Dry Ingredients:** In a large bowl, whisk together the masa harina, baking powder, salt, and anise seeds (if using).
2. **Incorporate the Fat:** Add the lard or vegetable shortening to the dry ingredients. Use your hands or a stand mixer with a paddle attachment to rub the fat into the flour until the mixture resembles coarse crumbs.
3. **Add the Liquid:** Gradually add the warm chicken broth (or vegetable broth) and reserved cooking liquid from the filling (if using) to the masa mixture, mixing until a smooth, slightly sticky dough forms. The dough should be soft and easily spreadable. If the dough is too dry, add a little more broth, one tablespoon at a time. If it’s too wet, add a little more masa harina, one tablespoon at a time.
4. **Test the Masa:** To test the consistency of the masa, drop a small spoonful into a glass of cold water. If the masa floats, it’s ready. If it sinks, continue beating the masa for another few minutes to incorporate more air.

**Part 3: Preparing the Banana Leaves**

1. **Clean the Leaves:** Wipe the banana leaves clean with a damp cloth to remove any dirt or debris.
2. **Soften the Leaves:** If using fresh banana leaves, they will be pliable enough to use. If using frozen leaves, thaw them completely. To make the leaves more pliable and prevent them from tearing, you can either:
* **Pass them over an open flame:** Carefully pass each leaf over a gas flame on your stovetop for a few seconds, until they turn a brighter green and become more flexible. Be careful not to burn them.
* **Steam them:** Steam the banana leaves for about 5-10 minutes, until they become more pliable.
3. **Cut the Leaves:** Cut the banana leaves into rectangles, approximately 8-10 inches wide and 10-12 inches long. You will also need smaller strips of banana leaf to tie the tamales closed.

**Part 4: Assembling the Tamales**

1. **Lay Out the Leaf:** Place a banana leaf rectangle on a flat surface.
2. **Spread the Masa:** Using a spoon or spatula, spread about 1/3 cup of the masa onto the center of the banana leaf, leaving a 1-inch border around the edges. Spread the masa into an oval or rectangle shape.
3. **Add the Filling:** Spoon about 2-3 tablespoons of the filling onto the center of the masa.
4. **Fold the Tamale:** Fold one side of the banana leaf over the filling, then fold the other side over to create a sealed packet. Fold the top and bottom ends of the leaf underneath to secure the tamale.
5. **Tie the Tamale (Optional):** Use a strip of banana leaf to tie the tamale closed, if desired. This helps to keep the tamale sealed during steaming.
6. **Repeat:** Repeat the process with the remaining banana leaves, masa, and filling.

**Part 5: Steaming the Tamales**

1. **Prepare the Steamer:** Fill a large steamer pot with about 2 inches of water. Place the steamer insert into the pot.
2. **Line the Steamer:** Line the bottom of the steamer insert with extra banana leaves to prevent the tamales from sticking and to add extra flavor.
3. **Arrange the Tamales:** Stand the tamales upright in the steamer, packing them tightly together to prevent them from unfolding during steaming. You can layer the tamales if necessary.
4. **Cover and Steam:** Cover the pot tightly with a lid and steam the tamales over medium heat for about 1.5-2 hours, or until the masa is firm and pulls away easily from the banana leaf. Check the water level periodically and add more if necessary.
5. **Check for Doneness:** To check for doneness, remove one tamale from the steamer and unwrap it. The masa should be firm and cooked through. If the masa is still sticky or wet, continue steaming for another 15-20 minutes.
6. **Rest:** Once the tamales are cooked through, turn off the heat and let them rest in the steamer for about 15-20 minutes before serving. This will help them to firm up.

## Serving Suggestions

Tamales Oaxaqueños are delicious on their own, but they can also be served with:

* **Crema Mexicana:** A dollop of Mexican crema adds a rich and tangy flavor.
* **Queso Fresco:** Crumbled queso fresco provides a salty and crumbly contrast to the smooth masa.
* **Salsa:** Serve with your favorite salsa, such as salsa verde, salsa roja, or pico de gallo.
* **Pickled Onions:** Curtido, a type of pickled onion, adds a bright and acidic element.
* **Rice and Beans:** A classic accompaniment to any Mexican meal.

## Tips for Success

* **Use High-Quality Ingredients:** The quality of your ingredients will directly impact the flavor of your tamales. Use fresh, high-quality masa harina, lard or shortening, and chilies.
* **Don’t Overfill the Tamales:** Overfilling the tamales will make them difficult to fold and may cause them to burst during steaming.
* **Pack the Tamales Tightly:** Packing the tamales tightly in the steamer will help them to maintain their shape and prevent them from unfolding.
* **Check the Water Level Regularly:** Make sure to check the water level in the steamer pot regularly and add more water if necessary. You don’t want the pot to run dry.
* **Be Patient:** Making Tamales Oaxaqueños takes time and patience. Don’t rush the process. Enjoy the experience of creating this delicious Oaxacan delicacy.
* **Make Ahead:** Tamales can be made ahead of time and stored in the refrigerator for up to 3 days. Reheat them by steaming them for about 15-20 minutes.
* **Freeze for Later:** Cooked tamales freeze beautifully! Wrap them individually in plastic wrap and then place them in a freezer bag. They can be stored in the freezer for up to 2 months. To reheat, steam them from frozen for about 30-40 minutes.

## Variations and Adaptations

* **Vegetarian Tamales:** Substitute vegetable broth for chicken broth in the masa and filling. Use a vegetarian filling, such as roasted vegetables, beans, or cheese.
* **Sweet Tamales:** Add more sugar to the masa and fill with sweet ingredients, such as pineapple, raisins, or chocolate.
* **Spicy Tamales:** Add more chilies to the mole or salsa for a spicier flavor.
* **Experiment with Fillings:** Feel free to experiment with different fillings, such as mushrooms, squash blossoms, or other seasonal ingredients.

## Conclusion

Making Tamales Oaxaqueños at home is a rewarding experience. While it requires time and effort, the result is a delicious and authentic Oaxacan dish that you can share with your friends and family. With this comprehensive guide and a little practice, you’ll be able to create perfect Tamales Oaxaqueños every time. So, gather your ingredients, put on some music, and embark on this culinary adventure! ¡Buen provecho!